Kim Stoddart explains how to reap some resilient and fruity rewards…
Who doesn’t dream of having an orchard some day? The idea of picking fresh fruits in autumn, maybe making some cider is a strong and rather lovely image. It’s a classic River Cottage idyl no less. Whilst we don’t all have Hugh Fearnley- Whittingstall’s budget, it is perfectly feasibly to weave some apple, pear, damson or wider fruit tree growing into your garden. You don’t need to have a dedicated orchard either as these trees can be added in any around existing planting, making the best use of the space you have available.
As one who lives 750ft above sea level in the wilds of West Wales – I was told that fruit tree planting was an absolute ‘no no’ on my land. Fifteen years later I’m pleased to report that my apples are absolutely flourishing despite the strong winds and that with a little helping hand there are ways to add fruits into even the most exposed of gardens Now is a good time of year to think about getting started so here are my tips to help you on your merry, perry way.
Working out which trees to choose
Native varieties come highly recommended – ideally those most suited to your particular part of the UK because they are most likely to be adapted to said local conditions. Find a specialist nursery in your area and they will be able to provide advice on which varieties work well together.
Apples are easiest with which to start
They require cross pollination with different apple trees to maximise harvests and depending on how many trees you want, any garden centre can point you in the right direction.
Dwarf trees will need less space so about 3 metres apart should be fine. Otherwise, think the more the better in terms of room for your tree to grown into and at least 5 metres distance in-between.
Also worth considering for the beginner orchard
- Damsons and plum trees
– Apricots – they might just need need some protection against frost early in the season when they flower to fruit if the thermostat plummets.
- Mulberry bush – these beautiful trees do need a lot of space but are very resilient once established
– Wild varieties of fruit tree – Choose from crab apple, wild pear or cherry for trees that can stand the test of time. These can be grown as edible hedging also.
Where to site them
A sunny, well drained site is ideal. Avoid any frost pockets (normally at the bottom of a slope). Your chosen spot might have existing trees or bushes nearby which will help with drainage but just ensure there is sufficient space between each tree you plant (about 5 metres).
How to provide protection in an exposed site
Use damsons down the side most prone to wind (Westerly in my case) and this line of trees will over time provide a first line of defence and enable the fruit trees behind to prosper and grow. This is exactly what I used on my smallholding to overcome the elements. It takes a few years for the damsons to grow to a sufficient size but then fruit trees normally take a few seasons to get started anyway.
When to plant
At this time of year you can still work with bare-root trees if you are quick. Dig your hole, gently spread the roots and add mycorrhizal fungi, a little compost to secure your tree in place. A stake can be used at first in an exposed spot to provide extra support and protect from wind.
Container-based trees can be planted any time of the year.
Just avoid planting out if the ground is frozen solid, there is a frost or the soil is too dry or sodden.
Maintenance
For the first few years try and keep the ground around your trees weed free till the tree gets established. A mulch of cardboard, leaf mould or such like can work well here.
Tip – Ensure your plants are watered if there is a drought.
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